Uncrowded Atlantic Perfection: Inside a Secret Strike Mission
I had always been drawn to the fringes.
Those blank spaces on the maps of global surf breaks. The still endless swaths of coastlines where good waves break, yet no one has dropped a pin to tell the surf world they exist. Or maybe, no one has ever set foot with the longing eyes of a surfer, at all.
Just like many of the best surf adventures, this one began with a vision and a dream. In 2018, I saw a video on surfer magazine, of a long perfect barreling right. One of the longest I had ever heard of. Breaking over a deserted, miles long sandbank, in shades of pale green. Embodying many of my favorite characteristics that a wave could own – coupled with the fact that it was desolate; surely an adventure to reach.
It became one of those places that I had to visit.
Years down the road, in 2021, I connected with a filmmaker, who whispered rumors of where this wave might be. I will not be naming any locations, out of respect for the integrity of the very thing that makes this type of destination special – the fact that it is not on a map, or a surf forecasting website. But this filmmaker connected me with a local, who shared with me some clues pointing me to this dreamscape. It’s become what feels like a privilege of mine - over the years of respect that I’ve built through riding heavy waves and remaining integral to why I do it in the first place and respectful to locals and their unwritten codes – to have people who are willing to share with me their secrets.
Just like any strike mission, this surf trip centered around a tangible swell event – as opposed to traveling to a surf destination with hopes of good timing. It was on me to piece together the complex web of logistics that go into the score. In order to be able to score any wave as efficiently as possible, you need to first know the ingredients that turn the wave on. What swell direction, size, and period is optimal for the given sandbank, reef, or point that you have eyes on. For the novice surf traveler, I can’t stress enough the importance of these ingredients. Swell forecasting goes much deeper than the numbers and colors that Surfline gives you on their little boxes.
For some surf breaks, a 10 degree difference in swell angle can make or break whether a surf spot is the best it’s ever been, or entirely dysfunctional. Next, what is the local wind doing? What wind does your target spot want? The swell could be pumping, but if the wind is off by the slightest of angles, that too can ruin a surf session. Is the spot that you want to surf tide sensitive? Some places have very small tide swings, while others have 12 or 13 foot tidal variations. You need to figure out exactly what tide range works for your spot. It could make the difference between a reef presenting as a granite ledge clearing the sea level by 4 feet, or the perfect bathymetry for creating a head high, wave pool-like drainer.
Now, you know what swell and local conditions to look for.
But you still need to know how to get there. When going on a strike mission, it is ideal to finalize logistics – flights, lodging, transportation means, surf buddies, water safety, and anything else you might need – 3 or 4 days before the swell event. Anything earlier than that, and you run the risk of the forecast for your desired conditions changing. Any later, and you might not get there in time. That is why it is important to have a plan in place; because when that swell pops up, you won’t have that much time to decide; you need to make the decision as simple as possible. How long will it take you to get there? Where will you stay? Who will you surf with? How will you get to the surf break? What documents will you need to enter the region that you are traveling to?
So for me, the vision clicked into gear in 2021. I began monitoring swells for my dream location. And quickly, it became clear that the conditions I desire don’t happen very often. Maybe once a year on average. I missed a swell in 2022, because I wasn’t in the position financially to pull it off. Another one in 2024, because the swell upgraded to my standard in the last minute – too late for me to get there in time. And another in 2025, because I was seeing a girl. But each missed opportunity gave me knowledge, and strengthened the foundation of my plan. I would gather reports. Maybe even get my hands on a whispered clip of the wave. Fine tuning the confidence in my knowledge of what exactly the wave looks for to turn on.
February, 2026.
A week earlier, my interpretation of a forecast told me that this was the time. And now, I stood on an endless stretch of golden sand. Soft green barrels, rifling down the beach with an almost fictitious perfection. Holding their shape for 20, 30; I feel like I can say it, maybe even 60 seconds. And not a soul in sight, for miles and miles in every direction. I watched with weary, jet lagged eyes, and wondered, if it could all be just a dream.
